Epic

From 1910 to 1928, Czech painter Alfons Mucha, much accredited with the rise of art nouveau, began a new artistic season with the project of the Slav Epic. Over the course of eighteen years, Mucha created twenty large canvases that depict the history of Czechs and other Slavic people. The paintings spurned a new period of nationalism within the Czech Republic, and across all the Slavic people.

The idea came to Mucha after he was asked to design the interior of the Pavilion of Bosnia-Herzegovina for the Paris Exhibition of 1900. In preparation for the project, Mucha traveled throughout the Balkans in order to observe the history and customs of Southern Slavs that had once been annexed by Austria-Hungary. Prior to starting, Mucha also visited the United States in order to secure a benefactor for his ambitious project. In winter 1909, he finalled secured sponsorship from Chicago philanthropist Charles Richard Crane.

Mucha's twenty canvases depict notable, historical events that define the Czech people, and Slavic people as a whole. "The first canvas in the series, The Slavs in Their Original Homeland, was finished in 1912 and the entire series was completed in 1926 with the final canvas, The Apotheosis of the Slavs, which celebrates the triumphant victory of all the Slavs whose homelands in 1918 finally became their very own."

The Epic was presented to the city of Prague in 1928, on the 10th Anniversary of Czech's independence. Up until the past year or so, the works were displayed in chateau in the town of Moravský Krumlov in the South Moravian Region of the Czech Republic. Today, the twenty large canvases can be seen on display in the National Gallery in Prague. It is quite remarkable to see both Mucha's works of the art nouveau style, and then the contrast with these massive Slavic epics--done in a similar style, but altogether deeper.

Medieval Meal

I have self-diagnosed myself as having a food phobia. Symptoms include throat tightening, increased anxiety, upset stomach, loss of appetite, and most likely tears. These symptoms are usually caused by exotic foods, unusual textures, unappreciated fats or grease or slime or juice or chewiness or BONES, or pressure from outside forces.

Sounds ridiculous right? Two summers ago, several girls that I mentor at an Austin area high school persuaded me to try a cherry tomato. Seemingly harmless to most, the cruel fruit with its grape-like texture, but sour tastes, and seeds hidden inside, instantly made my throat close so I could hardly swallow, and tears sprang to my eyes, and I loss my appetite until dessert finally came.

Given this account, it makes sense that traveling would be difficult and that I would very much dislike trying new foods. However, I have grown adventurous over the past few months, especially here in the Czech Republic. Supposedly your taste buds change every 7 years, so maybe this fear is a thing of the past.

On Wednesday, our first night in Cesky Krumlov, CET and Dennis arranged for our group to experience a medieval dining experience on the river. The portions were served family style and after a bowl of delicious soup (soup is a new favorite of mine), each table received a platter that featured chicken, a cut of pork, potato dumplings, boiled potatoes, a latke, and hash of some sorts. This medieval Czech cuisine was unknown, and I was definitely uncertain. But I cleared my plate, and my table cleared the platter. The rich and flavorful meal has easily taken its place amongst top meals I have had in my short lifetime of picky eating.

So word to the already wise, do not rule out Czech cuisine. Especially do not rule out medieval Czech cuisine. Especially in a medieval town. Thank you Cesky Krumlov for greater food appreciation, for cultural preservation and for bowls and bowls of soup.

Hues & Bones

On Friday, our class ventured outside of the Prague city limits to the small town of Kutna Hora. Our full day adventure included a self-paced tour of several Gothic churches, a trip to a bone church, lunch at a delightful cafe that overlooked both a grand cathedral and the idyllic town, and finally, a trip deep into a silver mine--complete with dripping water, stalagmites, and cramped, close spaces. The silver mine was definitely not for the claustrophobic.

We visited two churches, one of the early Gothic period and one built during the late Gothic period. The first was built by a group of nuns and one can venture up into the upper levels of the churches skeleton and see remnants of Romanesque architecture--the wall are still thick in order to carry the weight of the ceiling, and stained glass windows are not heavily incorporated here.

In contrast, the second, grander Gothic cathedral has visible flying buttresses, an innovation during this period that allows for higher ceilings, thinner walls, and lighter elements in general in order to give the building a more ethereal atmosphere--light and closer to the heavens.

In contrast to both cathedrals however, the large surprise of the trip was visiting a bone church. Around 1400, a small Gothic church was built in the center of a cemetery in Kutna Hora, and included an ossuary to be used as mass graves were unearthed during the construction of the structure. In 1511, a half-blind monk was given orders to organize the bones of collected bodies. Then in 1870, woodcraver František Rint was to organize the bones of nearly 40,000 to 70,000 bodies, which led to the construction of the bone scuptures.

The macabre sight is rather morbid, but the Schwarzenberg family landowners, wanted to create a reminder of the impermanence of human life and inescapable death. I am still struck by the oddity of this church in comparison with classic Romanesque and Gothic cathedrals, also with humankind's fascination with death. I saw more people visiting the Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Church) in Kutna Hora on Friday, and desiring to have their photos taken in front of stacks of bones, rather than marvel as the architectural innovations of a large Gothic Cathedral. Go figure.

Back in Time with Mucha

Being in a historic city such as Prague, filled with rich tales of kings and queens, German occupation during WWII, and oppression by communist rule, can truly transport someone to another place and another time.

Yesterday, as the rain ceased, our Maymester classes resumed. We met at the CET headquarters to watch a documentary on Czech painter and key contributor to the Art Noveau movement, Alfons Mucha. Then we ventured to the Prague Municipal House around the corner to view tennis player Ivan Lendl's extensive collection of Mucha prints--posters for the theater, advertisements for Nestlé chocolate and cigarettes, and whimsical, nature inspired portraits of women.

Built from 1900 to 1912, the municipal house was heavily influenced by the art nouveau style during its construction. The structure features murals painted by Alfons Mucha and serves as a symbol of Czech nationalism; the Degradation of the People and the Resurrection of the People represented in sculpture on the exterior facade. Before reaching the Mucha exhibit in the upper levels of the municipal house, we checked our bags and coats in the lower lobby cloakrooms. The practice of handing over our belongings seemed a step back in time itself, and the cloakroom remains virtually unchanged since original construction. I handed over 8 crowns, and watched as my jacket and camera bag were delicately stowed away.

Then ascending several flights of stairs, we reached the exhibit and began to gaze upon the awe-inspiring print work of Mucha. The attention to detail and his control of color allowed Mucha to gain popularity within the salons of Paris. I felt enlightened as I walked along four walls of his prints and stared at women who resembled Venus, and various Greek goddesses. I felt the the Municipal House, the cloakroom, the crystal chandeliers, the themes of Mucha's advertisements, and the general art nouveau style had transported me back to the late 19th/early 20th century.

Mucha's work reminded me of modern-day anime, and childhood cartoons like Sailor Moon with otherworldly women, the movement and shapes created by locks of hair, and the emotion found in wide, blank eyes. Also of psychedelic rocks posters from the 70's. So while I was transported in one moment to the 1910's, I also saw the carrying influence of Mucha's work and the Art Nouveau style over time based on my own knowledge of popular culture. It is a small wonder that history and art can be lasting in such a way as this, and that the hospitality can be found in a cloakroom, and majestic lighting in an old chandelier.